A place called India...

The task of describing each country has yet to become easy. I thought after half way through this voyage I would be able to quickly put down in words what each country looked and felt like. Fortunately, yes fortunately, this has persisted to challenge me. To describe India though has proven to be more difficult than the other ports. This country never ceased to provoke new thoughts and ideas that I once had about it, myself, and the world. For that I will always be grateful.

The Explorer docked in Chennai on Sunday, March 25th at precisely 0800. The Captain had again displayed his likeness for punctuality. Officials from India and US Customs boarded the ship while everyone on board ate breakfast and eagerly waited to begin their Indian adventures. My first adventure in India included an orientation to the city of Chennai with other SAS students and faculty. When the ship was cleared by Customs we were welcomed by Indian musicians and dancers on the dock and the heat and humidity of the Indian air. With a temperature over 90 degrees and a humidity resembling that of a steam room, I knew this was going to be a very unique experience. Oh, and I can not forget to mention the distinct, and utterly indescribable odor that India exposes its visitors to. But again every element contributed to its uniqueness.

Chennai is the fourth-largest city in India and is the capital of the southern state of Tamilnadu. Tamil is the official language of this state; however the country has 21 official languages. We were taken through the city center on Mount Road. Our large tour bus looked very out of place next to the small auto rickshaws, three wheeled autos no bigger than a go kart, and the countless number of motorcycles and scooters. I would like to mention that I will never complain about traffic again, or at least I will try very hard not to! The drive through the residential areas provided a striking contrast between rich and poor, the haves and have-nots. On one side of the street were palm and thatch covered shacks and on the other beautifully manicured homes and flats (apartments). The depiction of India as a country of contrasts became ever so apparent. We were lucky to be able to visit a home of one an Indian family. We were told that this particular family was very successful in the silk and textile industry owning many shops around the city. Needless to say they were from the “right” side of the street. We were welcomed with open arms and given food and drink right when we stepped into the home. They were very excited to share their home and lives with us. Question after question were exchanged and our dialogue flowed easily. The daughter of the family had just graduated from University and was very enthusiastic to talk with other students. Her name was Divya, and is now teaching English at an elementary school. After our delightful and engaging conversation she offered to show us the “real” Chennai. So we set a time and exchanged numbers to meet on Tuesday for her to show us around. How exciting! We said our goodbyes and thanked the family for their hospitality. The tour then took us to the family’s shop where we were able to look and purchase beautiful and luxurious silks for prices that made us feel like we were stealing! I was also able to try on and eventually buy a traditional and very elegant dress of the Indian women. It is called a saree it comes in every color imaginable and is made of the finest silk that I have ever touched. The one I chose was a rich black with delicate yellow and gold designs. Each piece was intricately hand-stitched making it appear only for a queen.

The influence and heritage of British India was seen in many parts of the city. The Fort St. George, which contains St. Mary’s Church and the Fort Museum were beautiful landmarks displaying rich history. We then passed by Marina Beach, the second longest beach in the world after the beach in Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. Many people could be seen playing the popular sports of cricket and football (soccer). It was interesting to see though that no one was in the water due to the intense currents of the Bay of Bengal even though the temperatures continued to soar throughout the day. A monument constructed of Gandhi was in near the Marina. It was so rewarding to see that after studying about him and the enormous impact he had for this country. Passing the beach, we saw Madras University, or as it is known today as the University of Chennai, which is an elegantly designed structure with rich red bricks and trees outlining its gates. Then our tour led us to the oldest section of Chennai. Here we visited the San Thome Cathedral where the apostle Thomas was buried. It was vibrant white and relatively small compared to some of the cathedrals that I have seen in Europe. But its significance could not be matched. After removing our shoes, we descended down stairs which led to a dark corridor. The light was minimal and we could only see directly in front of us. When we entered the room where St. Thomas’ tomb was I was instantly overcome with a feeling that I was somewhere special. To be in a place where the apostle that physically touched Jesus after He rose from the dead was inconceivable. Goosebumps instantly took over my body and words were unable to be spoken. Pictures lined the walls near the door displaying images of Pope John Paul II visiting the tomb. What an honor to be in this place in this incredible country! From there we were taken to another religious site, a Hindu temple. With an ancient history and remarkable discipline from its believers, I was immediately interested in learning more about Hinduism. Each and every day the Hindi people travel to the temples to worship and perform rituals honoring their many gods. Statues and flowers were everywhere signifying their strong faith and beliefs.
That night was spent at a welcome reception which was hosted by local university students. Set in the courtyard of beautiful hotel, we were offered jasmine flower buds which smelled divine. Indian women in sarees applied kum-kum, the red dot of sandalwood paste on our foreheads and sprinkled us with rose water. Kate and I wore our new sarees along with other SAS students. It was so fun to be immersed in this fascinating culture! With Indian music in the background we talked with the students and shared stories about our lives. Many things were very different and yet many the same. The food was delicious, with spices that I have never tasted before. Now I know why India is referred to as the land of spices! After we were given henna tattoos on our hands and watched a Bharata Natyam dance, both traditional art forms. This dance is the subtle and sophisticated dance-art of Tamilnadu, according to the director. It is very dynamic and precise using a variety of complex body postures and movements. The dress was also something to be noted with gold jewelry dripping from every limb which added to the music of the dance. It was a superb evening, a perfect welcome to India!
The next day, Monday, offered a more intimate depiction of Hinduism. Our first stop was in a city called Kancheepuram, or Golden City. It is one of the seven most sacred places of pilgrimage for Hindus. It once was the home of more than a thousand temples but only a few hundred remain. One temple, the Kailasantha Temple, is over 1200 years old and paintings from the 7th and 8th centuries can still be seen today. Each temple is has layers and layers of sculptures and designs, some up to ten stories. Thousands of Hindus were worshipping and many preparing for an upcoming festival. Our guide told us that every Hindu participates in the preparations and actual celebration. This city is also well-known for its silk weaving and we were able to see it in action. The looms that the silk is woven on are large and appear difficult to maneuver. One of the weavers told us that he works on one saree for over 8 hours a day for 40 days. Each day he weaves only 35 centimeters! Incredible!

The next stop was in Mamallapuram, an ancient port city which is now a popular beach resort area. Here we visited the 1200 year old Shore Temple. It was by far the most stunning temple. Its background consisted of the Bay of Bengal and lush greenery surrounding it on all sides. People bathing in the waters and performing rituals provided another insight to Hinduism. From there we visited the Five Rathas, stone edifices which were sculpted and shaped into temple prototypes. Monkeys and goats were all over the premise, many coming right up to us. At one point we were surrounded by monkeys which looked like they were going to jump on us at any moment! A man with a monkey on a leash performed tricks for us and numerous street vendors tried to sell us handicrafts. It was the little children selling beads that got to me though. Looking into their eyes and seeing their frail, bony bodies was too much. Many of us helped the little ones make a few rupees (Indian currency). Appropriately enough, we then went to eat lunch at a luxurious restaurant not far from Mamallapuram. It was the transition from one extreme to the next that tried me the most. At one moment I was in the midst of starving children and the next I was at a five star restaurant about to feast on gourmet Indian food…quite the contradiction.

And this internal conflict remained with me for the rest of my time. However it became ever so apparent on Tuesday morning. Kate and I took a rickshaw to Missions of Charity, one of the many orphanages that Mother Theresa started. Here many children were rescued from the streets of Chennai or were brought here by their parents or the police. There were unwanted. Some suffer from mental retardation and others from birth defects, some because they are female, an inferior gender in this society.
Upon entering the gate, the first thing that we saw was a large statue of Mother Theresa and the Prayer of St. Francis of Assisi:

LORD, MAKE ME AN INSTRUMENT OF PEACE.
WHERE THERE IS HATRED, LET ME SOW LOVE
WHERE THERE IS INJURY, LET ME SOW PARDON
WHERE THERE IS FRICTION, LET ME SOW UNION
WHERE THERE IS ERROR, LET ME SOW TRUTH
WHERE THERE IS DOUBT, LET ME SOW FAITH
WHERE THERE IS DESPARI, LET ME SOW HOPE
WHERE THERE IS DARKNESS, LET ME SOW LIGHT
WHERE THERE IS SADNESS, LET ME SOW JOY
O DIVIVE MASTER,
GRANT THAT I MAY NOT SO MUCH SEEK
TO BE CONSOLED AS TO CONSOLE,
TO BE UNDERSTOOD, AS TO UNDERSTAND,
TO BE LOVE, AS TO LOVE
FOR IT IS IN GIVING THAT WE RECEIVE
FOR IT IS IN PARDONING THAT WE ARE PARDONED.
IT IS IN DYING THAT WE ARE BORN TO ETERNAL LIFE.
AMEN.

With that as an introduction, I can tell you that I was not prepared for what I was about to experience. We were greeted by Sister Wilfred who smiled when she saw us. We simply asked if we would be able to visit and help her in any way. She happily agreed and after we removed our sandals we were brought to the main house. As we climbed the stairs she stopped and turned to face us. With a somber look on her face she said, “I thank our Lord that you are here to help us. But I must tell you that many of the children are not well. Many are sick physically and mentally. Many are polio-stricken. Some can not walk or even lift their heads. Do not expect them to play with you or talk to you. Just talk to them and show them that you are there. All they want is love.” And with that we followed her into house.

Now I wish I were able to eloquently and accurately describe what happened next. I will try my very best to replicate the sights, sounds, and sensations of the hours I spent with these children. But I know that there are no words to truthfully describe what I experienced. One day I hope everyone will encounter something such as this which transforms you, transforms your soul.
Sister Wilfred brought us into the main room where older children were coloring and drawing at a table. Many were in wheelchairs and other apparatuses that held their bodies in an upright position. To the right was the nursery filled with tiny infants, or what appeared to be new born babies. I later found out that some were several months old but did not grow at normal rates. Then to the left was another room. I did not see any children in there but I could hear noise. As I neared the entrance I began to smell urine. Was it the bathroom I wondered or just another room? The door was cut in half, masking the lower portion of the entrance. I still could not see the source of the soft muffling and groaning. Then I did…five children were lying on a thin cushion. Their bodies bent in ways that I have never thought possible. Surely they must be in pain. But then again, they were probably born that way. Looking over the door, I could not move closer. I was frozen. My heart shattered and tears began to form. But they did not fall. As I stood there unable to move I asked myself why I wasn’t on the mat next to them comforting them, talking to them, showing them love like Sister Wilfred instructed. Still to this moment I do not know why I was not able to move at first but as difficult as it was I knew that I must. Lifting my leg over the bottom portion of the door, I recall moving slowly, looking for a place to sit. Others had joined me now and began talking to the children. One little boy had fallen off the mat so I approached him. His eyes consistently rolled back into his head and his arms and legs twisted and lurched. Not wanting him to be on the cold cement floor I picked up his body to move him to the mat. I had found the source of the urine. Unable to even keep his head up I expected this happens a lot. He could not have been more than 50 pounds, with his bones highly visible. Sister Wilfred told us that many of these children are actually older than they seem but their sickness hinders their growth. The room was quiet again with only a few soft noises coming from the children. I was now sitting next to the boy. His eyes still rolling and twitching. He was so helpless. And yet at the same time, he was beautiful. Quietly, I began talking to him. I don’t even remember what I said but the sound of my voice was soft and consistent. I lifted my hand to caress his back and noticed it was shaking horribly. Though I could not stop it I began to gently lay my fingers on his small back, letting him feel my touch. The shaking began to slow and talking to him became easier. Others in the room began talking as well and I think we all became comfortable with the children. After 20 minutes or so I heard a noise from the boy…different than any that I had heard before. When I looked at his face to see if he showed any signs of distress, I noticed his mouth moving. Slowly a smile formed on his face…and he began laughing! How incredible, moving, and ultimately life-changing that was for me! This little boy who can not walk or talk was smiling. Smiling because of a small touch. Like Sister Wilfred said, all these children need and want is love. And in a few moments of my time I was able to do just that. Now I can truly say I understand what St. Francis of Assisi meant in his prayer when he said, “For it is in giving that we receive.”

Walking away from that little boy was hard but I was comforted by Sister Wilfred when she said that it is these children, those that no one wants that God loves the most. The whole premise behind what Mother Theresa stood for was to love and give to those who had nothing. She herself did not have much. All she had was love. And she did more with that than any amount of money could do. More can be done with love than anything else. I think of that little boy…millions of dollars could not have made that boy smile. But a small, loving touch could. And it did.
A total of 85 children lived at this orphanage. Like I mentioned, many were very sick and could not even move. A small baby did not have her right arm or leg and all she could do was roll around on the floor. Others just sat and stared. But that does not take away from each one’s beauty. It wasn’t until after I spent time with them that I began to see this…it is almost as if I began to see these children how Mother Theresa would have seen them.
At noon we were asked to leave since visiting hours were closed. After saying goodbye to the children and other sisters we gave a donation to Sister Wilfred and thanked her for her time and the difference her life has made for those children. And the difference she made in our lives. It takes a special person to do what she does every day and I hope I will be able to make a difference like that as well.

Needless to say, my time in India will forever be defined by that extraordinary experience. If those few hours were all that I was allowed to have in India, I would have been grateful. Fortunately, I was blessed with much more!

Since it was Tuesday, Kate, Sashia, and I met up with Divya, our new Indian friend. She took us to all her favorite places in Chennai. Her favorite things to do are shop and see movies. We got to see her family again at one of their stores and she helped us get gifts for our families and friends. She is an amazing and outgoing person. We both agreed that we felt like we had known each other for years! She hopes to come to the States to visit, especially New York. We spent all day laughing and getting to know each another. It is amazing how similar we all are! We didn’t return to the ship until late but were exhausted from the day’s goodness.

Wednesday offered another insight into Indian life; however it was different than what I had already seen. The day consisted of a tour of a rural farm village where I was able to interact with locals. We saw how they lived and though it was very simple and humble, provided them with all that they needed to live a happy life. We were able to go to a rice paddy and help the farmers harvest the rice. Then we went to a peanut field and picked peanuts from the ground! It is actually harder than I thought. Who knew there was an art to peanut-picking! After that we rode bullock carts, large wooden carts pulled by two large cows, to a coconut fart. Here we watched a man climb 30 foot palm trees to cut down coconuts for us to enjoy. Another art form that is harder than it looks! Following the coconut refreshments we went to Dakshina Chitra Heritage Village. Here we were able to see what life was like for Indians in the early 1800s. Traditional craftsmen and folk artists were on sight to demonstrate how they made silk, pottery, etc. One man was a glass blower and made beautiful arts and crafts from only fire and glass. The tour lasted all day and by the time we returned to the ship the sun and heat had gotten the best of me. And the funny thing is that it isn’t summer yet! And I thought I liked the heat!

Our final day in Chennai, Thursday, presented yet another adventure. Lindsay and I began the day early with errands and shopping to be accomplished. Now even though I have yet to mention the art of rickshaw bargaining, I feel it is relevant and well, just interesting to understand. So when people from the ship leave the gates of the ship entrance, they are instantly bombarded by rickshaw drivers trying to get them to come with them. They will shout and pull and demand that you come with them. At first this was a little frightening. But after much practice it becomes easier to do. So Lindsay and I began bargaining with a few drivers and finally got a price which we agreed upon. We told our driver that we had three stops: the shopping market, Post Office, and an Internet cafe. In the driver’s defense we did get to all of our locations…however in reverse order. No problem. However, let me just say that riding in one of these things makes shark diving, bungee jumping, and sky diving look like a relaxing walk in the park. It was literally a brush with death every time we got into one of them. But it was awesome! OK, it was a little nerve-racking at first…but what could we do? By the end of the first ride we were all laughing hysterically thinking “if only our parents could see what we were doing now!” Thankfully, we survived each and every encounter with the rickshaw. Oh, and I can’t forget to mention that when you say that you want to go shopping at a particular place, say Spencer’s Plaza, they first say that it is closed. Then they will take you to another “good” shop. It wasn’t too long that we found out that indeed Spencer’s was not closed and the driver gets a commission each time he brings people to the “good” shops. So after Lindsay and I went to the Internet café we were brought to a “good” shop…then to Spencer’s. We realized too that we couldn’t get mad. It was all a part of the adventure! After a few hours shopping we headed back to the ship to meet up with other friends to go out for one last Indian meal. Unfortunately, even though we tried really hard to find a place to eat where someone from the ship hadn’t gotten sick from, we ended up back at Spencer’s and well let me just say…we ate at Pizza Hut. I know, I know. Our last meal in India and we go there…well at least we didn’t get sick!
While waiting for the ship to set sail again, we all chatted about our time in India. It stirred every emotion and awaked those that many had become dormant. There were adventures and trials, smiles and tear. But that is why India was so unique…

Looking back to less than a week ago I remember being so excited as well as anxious about visiting India. The closer the ship sailed to Chennai the more restless I became thinking and wondering about the experiences that were to be before me. Now my time in India has come to a close and all the things that I saw and did are imprinted as memories and pictures. What is more is that I came to a realization that our world, which can seem big at times, is very small. People from India are just like the people in South Africa. Or Brazil. Or Puerto Rico. And yes, like the folks in Lake Shore. Of course, we all live different lives with various religions, cultures, and traditions. But we are all the same; from an Indian rickshaw driver, to an HIV positive child in South Africa, to the mailman in Nisswa, each and every one of these beings is living within the same world. And it is because of a place called India that I know now more than ever…all we need is love.