Saturday, March 31, 2007
A place called India...
The task of describing each country has yet to become easy. I thought after half way through this voyage I would be able to quickly put down in words what each country looked and felt like. Fortunately, yes fortunately, this has persisted to challenge me. To describe India though has proven to be more difficult than the other ports. This country never ceased to provoke new thoughts and ideas that I once had about it, myself, and the world. For that I will always be grateful.
The Explorer docked in Chennai on Sunday, March 25th at precisely 0800. The Captain had again displayed his likeness for punctuality. Officials from India and US Customs boarded the ship while everyone on board ate breakfast and eagerly waited to begin their Indian adventures. My first adventure in India included an orientation to the city of Chennai with other SAS students and faculty. When the ship was cleared by Customs we were welcomed by Indian musicians and dancers on the dock and the heat and humidity of the Indian air. With a temperature over 90 degrees and a humidity resembling that of a steam room, I knew this was going to be a very unique experience. Oh, and I can not forget to mention the distinct, and utterly indescribable odor that India exposes its visitors to. But again every element contributed to its uniqueness.
Chennai is the fourth-largest city in India and is the capital of the southern state of Tamilnadu. Tamil is the official language of this state; however the country has 21 official languages. We were taken through the city center on Mount Road. Our large tour bus looked very out of place next to the small auto rickshaws, three wheeled autos no bigger than a go kart, and the countless number of motorcycles and scooters. I would like to mention that I will never complain about traffic again, or at least I will try very hard not to! The drive through the residential areas provided a striking contrast between rich and poor, the haves and have-nots. On one side of the street were palm and thatch covered shacks and on the other beautifully manicured homes and flats (apartments). The depiction of India as a country of contrasts became ever so apparent. We were lucky to be able to visit a home of one an Indian family. We were told that this particular family was very successful in the silk and textile industry owning many shops around the city. Needless to say they were from the “right” side of the street. We were welcomed with open arms and given food and drink right when we stepped into the home. They were very excited to share their home and lives with us. Question after question were exchanged and our dialogue flowed easily. The daughter of the family had just graduated from University and was very enthusiastic to talk with other students. Her name was Divya, and is now teaching English at an elementary school. After our delightful and engaging conversation she offered to show us the “real” Chennai. So we set a time and exchanged numbers to meet on Tuesday for her to show us around. How exciting! We said our goodbyes and thanked the family for their hospitality. The tour then took us to the family’s shop where we were able to look and purchase beautiful and luxurious silks for prices that made us feel like we were stealing! I was also able to try on and eventually buy a traditional and very elegant dress of the Indian women. It is called a saree it comes in every color imaginable and is made of the finest silk that I have ever touched. The one I chose was a rich black with delicate yellow and gold designs. Each piece was intricately hand-stitched making it appear only for a queen.
The influence and heritage of British India was seen in many parts of the city. The Fort St. George, which contains St. Mary’s Church and the Fort Museum were beautiful landmarks displaying rich history. We then passed by Marina Beach, the second longest beach in the world after the beach in Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. Many people could be seen playing the popular sports of cricket and football (soccer). It was interesting to see though that no one was in the water due to the intense currents of the Bay of Bengal even though the temperatures continued to soar throughout the day. A monument constructed of Gandhi was in near the Marina. It was so rewarding to see that after studying about him and the enormous impact he had for this country. Passing the beach, we saw Madras University, or as it is known today as the University of Chennai, which is an elegantly designed structure with rich red bricks and trees outlining its gates. Then our tour led us to the oldest section of Chennai. Here we visited the San Thome Cathedral where the apostle Thomas was buried. It was vibrant white and relatively small compared to some of the cathedrals that I have seen in Europe. But its significance could not be matched. After removing our shoes, we descended down stairs which led to a dark corridor. The light was minimal and we could only see directly in front of us. When we entered the room where St. Thomas’ tomb was I was instantly overcome with a feeling that I was somewhere special. To be in a place where the apostle that physically touched Jesus after He rose from the dead was inconceivable. Goosebumps instantly took over my body and words were unable to be spoken. Pictures lined the walls near the door displaying images of Pope John Paul II visiting the tomb. What an honor to be in this place in this incredible country! From there we were taken to another religious site, a Hindu temple. With an ancient history and remarkable discipline from its believers, I was immediately interested in learning more about Hinduism. Each and every day the Hindi people travel to the temples to worship and perform rituals honoring their many gods. Statues and flowers were everywhere signifying their strong faith and beliefs.
That night was spent at a welcome reception which was hosted by local university students. Set in the courtyard of beautiful hotel, we were offered jasmine flower buds which smelled divine. Indian women in sarees applied kum-kum, the red dot of sandalwood paste on our foreheads and sprinkled us with rose water. Kate and I wore our new sarees along with other SAS students. It was so fun to be immersed in this fascinating culture! With Indian music in the background we talked with the students and shared stories about our lives. Many things were very different and yet many the same. The food was delicious, with spices that I have never tasted before. Now I know why India is referred to as the land of spices! After we were given henna tattoos on our hands and watched a Bharata Natyam dance, both traditional art forms. This dance is the subtle and sophisticated dance-art of Tamilnadu, according to the director. It is very dynamic and precise using a variety of complex body postures and movements. The dress was also something to be noted with gold jewelry dripping from every limb which added to the music of the dance. It was a superb evening, a perfect welcome to India!
The next day, Monday, offered a more intimate depiction of Hinduism. Our first stop was in a city called Kancheepuram, or Golden City. It is one of the seven most sacred places of pilgrimage for Hindus. It once was the home of more than a thousand temples but only a few hundred remain. One temple, the Kailasantha Temple, is over 1200 years old and paintings from the 7th and 8th centuries can still be seen today. Each temple is has layers and layers of sculptures and designs, some up to ten stories. Thousands of Hindus were worshipping and many preparing for an upcoming festival. Our guide told us that every Hindu participates in the preparations and actual celebration. This city is also well-known for its silk weaving and we were able to see it in action. The looms that the silk is woven on are large and appear difficult to maneuver. One of the weavers told us that he works on one saree for over 8 hours a day for 40 days. Each day he weaves only 35 centimeters! Incredible!
The next stop was in Mamallapuram, an ancient port city which is now a popular beach resort area. Here we visited the 1200 year old Shore Temple. It was by far the most stunning temple. Its background consisted of the Bay of Bengal and lush greenery surrounding it on all sides. People bathing in the waters and performing rituals provided another insight to Hinduism. From there we visited the Five Rathas, stone edifices which were sculpted and shaped into temple prototypes. Monkeys and goats were all over the premise, many coming right up to us. At one point we were surrounded by monkeys which looked like they were going to jump on us at any moment! A man with a monkey on a leash performed tricks for us and numerous street vendors tried to sell us handicrafts. It was the little children selling beads that got to me though. Looking into their eyes and seeing their frail, bony bodies was too much. Many of us helped the little ones make a few rupees (Indian currency). Appropriately enough, we then went to eat lunch at a luxurious restaurant not far from Mamallapuram. It was the transition from one extreme to the next that tried me the most. At one moment I was in the midst of starving children and the next I was at a five star restaurant about to feast on gourmet Indian food…quite the contradiction.
And this internal conflict remained with me for the rest of my time. However it became ever so apparent on Tuesday morning. Kate and I took a rickshaw to Missions of Charity, one of the many orphanages that Mother Theresa started. Here many children were rescued from the streets of Chennai or were brought here by their parents or the police. There were unwanted. Some suffer from mental retardation and others from birth defects, some because they are female, an inferior gender in this society.
Upon entering the gate, the first thing that we saw was a large statue of Mother Theresa and the Prayer of St. Francis of Assisi:
LORD, MAKE ME AN INSTRUMENT OF PEACE.
WHERE THERE IS HATRED, LET ME SOW LOVE
WHERE THERE IS INJURY, LET ME SOW PARDON
WHERE THERE IS FRICTION, LET ME SOW UNION
WHERE THERE IS ERROR, LET ME SOW TRUTH
WHERE THERE IS DOUBT, LET ME SOW FAITH
WHERE THERE IS DESPARI, LET ME SOW HOPE
WHERE THERE IS DARKNESS, LET ME SOW LIGHT
WHERE THERE IS SADNESS, LET ME SOW JOY
O DIVIVE MASTER,
GRANT THAT I MAY NOT SO MUCH SEEK
TO BE CONSOLED AS TO CONSOLE,
TO BE UNDERSTOOD, AS TO UNDERSTAND,
TO BE LOVE, AS TO LOVE
FOR IT IS IN GIVING THAT WE RECEIVE
FOR IT IS IN PARDONING THAT WE ARE PARDONED.
IT IS IN DYING THAT WE ARE BORN TO ETERNAL LIFE.
AMEN.
With that as an introduction, I can tell you that I was not prepared for what I was about to experience. We were greeted by Sister Wilfred who smiled when she saw us. We simply asked if we would be able to visit and help her in any way. She happily agreed and after we removed our sandals we were brought to the main house. As we climbed the stairs she stopped and turned to face us. With a somber look on her face she said, “I thank our Lord that you are here to help us. But I must tell you that many of the children are not well. Many are sick physically and mentally. Many are polio-stricken. Some can not walk or even lift their heads. Do not expect them to play with you or talk to you. Just talk to them and show them that you are there. All they want is love.” And with that we followed her into house.
Now I wish I were able to eloquently and accurately describe what happened next. I will try my very best to replicate the sights, sounds, and sensations of the hours I spent with these children. But I know that there are no words to truthfully describe what I experienced. One day I hope everyone will encounter something such as this which transforms you, transforms your soul.
Sister Wilfred brought us into the main room where older children were coloring and drawing at a table. Many were in wheelchairs and other apparatuses that held their bodies in an upright position. To the right was the nursery filled with tiny infants, or what appeared to be new born babies. I later found out that some were several months old but did not grow at normal rates. Then to the left was another room. I did not see any children in there but I could hear noise. As I neared the entrance I began to smell urine. Was it the bathroom I wondered or just another room? The door was cut in half, masking the lower portion of the entrance. I still could not see the source of the soft muffling and groaning. Then I did…five children were lying on a thin cushion. Their bodies bent in ways that I have never thought possible. Surely they must be in pain. But then again, they were probably born that way. Looking over the door, I could not move closer. I was frozen. My heart shattered and tears began to form. But they did not fall. As I stood there unable to move I asked myself why I wasn’t on the mat next to them comforting them, talking to them, showing them love like Sister Wilfred instructed. Still to this moment I do not know why I was not able to move at first but as difficult as it was I knew that I must. Lifting my leg over the bottom portion of the door, I recall moving slowly, looking for a place to sit. Others had joined me now and began talking to the children. One little boy had fallen off the mat so I approached him. His eyes consistently rolled back into his head and his arms and legs twisted and lurched. Not wanting him to be on the cold cement floor I picked up his body to move him to the mat. I had found the source of the urine. Unable to even keep his head up I expected this happens a lot. He could not have been more than 50 pounds, with his bones highly visible. Sister Wilfred told us that many of these children are actually older than they seem but their sickness hinders their growth. The room was quiet again with only a few soft noises coming from the children. I was now sitting next to the boy. His eyes still rolling and twitching. He was so helpless. And yet at the same time, he was beautiful. Quietly, I began talking to him. I don’t even remember what I said but the sound of my voice was soft and consistent. I lifted my hand to caress his back and noticed it was shaking horribly. Though I could not stop it I began to gently lay my fingers on his small back, letting him feel my touch. The shaking began to slow and talking to him became easier. Others in the room began talking as well and I think we all became comfortable with the children. After 20 minutes or so I heard a noise from the boy…different than any that I had heard before. When I looked at his face to see if he showed any signs of distress, I noticed his mouth moving. Slowly a smile formed on his face…and he began laughing! How incredible, moving, and ultimately life-changing that was for me! This little boy who can not walk or talk was smiling. Smiling because of a small touch. Like Sister Wilfred said, all these children need and want is love. And in a few moments of my time I was able to do just that. Now I can truly say I understand what St. Francis of Assisi meant in his prayer when he said, “For it is in giving that we receive.”
Walking away from that little boy was hard but I was comforted by Sister Wilfred when she said that it is these children, those that no one wants that God loves the most. The whole premise behind what Mother Theresa stood for was to love and give to those who had nothing. She herself did not have much. All she had was love. And she did more with that than any amount of money could do. More can be done with love than anything else. I think of that little boy…millions of dollars could not have made that boy smile. But a small, loving touch could. And it did.
A total of 85 children lived at this orphanage. Like I mentioned, many were very sick and could not even move. A small baby did not have her right arm or leg and all she could do was roll around on the floor. Others just sat and stared. But that does not take away from each one’s beauty. It wasn’t until after I spent time with them that I began to see this…it is almost as if I began to see these children how Mother Theresa would have seen them.
At noon we were asked to leave since visiting hours were closed. After saying goodbye to the children and other sisters we gave a donation to Sister Wilfred and thanked her for her time and the difference her life has made for those children. And the difference she made in our lives. It takes a special person to do what she does every day and I hope I will be able to make a difference like that as well.
Needless to say, my time in India will forever be defined by that extraordinary experience. If those few hours were all that I was allowed to have in India, I would have been grateful. Fortunately, I was blessed with much more!
Since it was Tuesday, Kate, Sashia, and I met up with Divya, our new Indian friend. She took us to all her favorite places in Chennai. Her favorite things to do are shop and see movies. We got to see her family again at one of their stores and she helped us get gifts for our families and friends. She is an amazing and outgoing person. We both agreed that we felt like we had known each other for years! She hopes to come to the States to visit, especially New York. We spent all day laughing and getting to know each another. It is amazing how similar we all are! We didn’t return to the ship until late but were exhausted from the day’s goodness.
Wednesday offered another insight into Indian life; however it was different than what I had already seen. The day consisted of a tour of a rural farm village where I was able to interact with locals. We saw how they lived and though it was very simple and humble, provided them with all that they needed to live a happy life. We were able to go to a rice paddy and help the farmers harvest the rice. Then we went to a peanut field and picked peanuts from the ground! It is actually harder than I thought. Who knew there was an art to peanut-picking! After that we rode bullock carts, large wooden carts pulled by two large cows, to a coconut fart. Here we watched a man climb 30 foot palm trees to cut down coconuts for us to enjoy. Another art form that is harder than it looks! Following the coconut refreshments we went to Dakshina Chitra Heritage Village. Here we were able to see what life was like for Indians in the early 1800s. Traditional craftsmen and folk artists were on sight to demonstrate how they made silk, pottery, etc. One man was a glass blower and made beautiful arts and crafts from only fire and glass. The tour lasted all day and by the time we returned to the ship the sun and heat had gotten the best of me. And the funny thing is that it isn’t summer yet! And I thought I liked the heat!
Our final day in Chennai, Thursday, presented yet another adventure. Lindsay and I began the day early with errands and shopping to be accomplished. Now even though I have yet to mention the art of rickshaw bargaining, I feel it is relevant and well, just interesting to understand. So when people from the ship leave the gates of the ship entrance, they are instantly bombarded by rickshaw drivers trying to get them to come with them. They will shout and pull and demand that you come with them. At first this was a little frightening. But after much practice it becomes easier to do. So Lindsay and I began bargaining with a few drivers and finally got a price which we agreed upon. We told our driver that we had three stops: the shopping market, Post Office, and an Internet cafe. In the driver’s defense we did get to all of our locations…however in reverse order. No problem. However, let me just say that riding in one of these things makes shark diving, bungee jumping, and sky diving look like a relaxing walk in the park. It was literally a brush with death every time we got into one of them. But it was awesome! OK, it was a little nerve-racking at first…but what could we do? By the end of the first ride we were all laughing hysterically thinking “if only our parents could see what we were doing now!” Thankfully, we survived each and every encounter with the rickshaw. Oh, and I can’t forget to mention that when you say that you want to go shopping at a particular place, say Spencer’s Plaza, they first say that it is closed. Then they will take you to another “good” shop. It wasn’t too long that we found out that indeed Spencer’s was not closed and the driver gets a commission each time he brings people to the “good” shops. So after Lindsay and I went to the Internet café we were brought to a “good” shop…then to Spencer’s. We realized too that we couldn’t get mad. It was all a part of the adventure! After a few hours shopping we headed back to the ship to meet up with other friends to go out for one last Indian meal. Unfortunately, even though we tried really hard to find a place to eat where someone from the ship hadn’t gotten sick from, we ended up back at Spencer’s and well let me just say…we ate at Pizza Hut. I know, I know. Our last meal in India and we go there…well at least we didn’t get sick!
While waiting for the ship to set sail again, we all chatted about our time in India. It stirred every emotion and awaked those that many had become dormant. There were adventures and trials, smiles and tear. But that is why India was so unique…
Looking back to less than a week ago I remember being so excited as well as anxious about visiting India. The closer the ship sailed to Chennai the more restless I became thinking and wondering about the experiences that were to be before me. Now my time in India has come to a close and all the things that I saw and did are imprinted as memories and pictures. What is more is that I came to a realization that our world, which can seem big at times, is very small. People from India are just like the people in South Africa. Or Brazil. Or Puerto Rico. And yes, like the folks in Lake Shore. Of course, we all live different lives with various religions, cultures, and traditions. But we are all the same; from an Indian rickshaw driver, to an HIV positive child in South Africa, to the mailman in Nisswa, each and every one of these beings is living within the same world. And it is because of a place called India that I know now more than ever…all we need is love.
The Explorer docked in Chennai on Sunday, March 25th at precisely 0800. The Captain had again displayed his likeness for punctuality. Officials from India and US Customs boarded the ship while everyone on board ate breakfast and eagerly waited to begin their Indian adventures. My first adventure in India included an orientation to the city of Chennai with other SAS students and faculty. When the ship was cleared by Customs we were welcomed by Indian musicians and dancers on the dock and the heat and humidity of the Indian air. With a temperature over 90 degrees and a humidity resembling that of a steam room, I knew this was going to be a very unique experience. Oh, and I can not forget to mention the distinct, and utterly indescribable odor that India exposes its visitors to. But again every element contributed to its uniqueness.
Chennai is the fourth-largest city in India and is the capital of the southern state of Tamilnadu. Tamil is the official language of this state; however the country has 21 official languages. We were taken through the city center on Mount Road. Our large tour bus looked very out of place next to the small auto rickshaws, three wheeled autos no bigger than a go kart, and the countless number of motorcycles and scooters. I would like to mention that I will never complain about traffic again, or at least I will try very hard not to! The drive through the residential areas provided a striking contrast between rich and poor, the haves and have-nots. On one side of the street were palm and thatch covered shacks and on the other beautifully manicured homes and flats (apartments). The depiction of India as a country of contrasts became ever so apparent. We were lucky to be able to visit a home of one an Indian family. We were told that this particular family was very successful in the silk and textile industry owning many shops around the city. Needless to say they were from the “right” side of the street. We were welcomed with open arms and given food and drink right when we stepped into the home. They were very excited to share their home and lives with us. Question after question were exchanged and our dialogue flowed easily. The daughter of the family had just graduated from University and was very enthusiastic to talk with other students. Her name was Divya, and is now teaching English at an elementary school. After our delightful and engaging conversation she offered to show us the “real” Chennai. So we set a time and exchanged numbers to meet on Tuesday for her to show us around. How exciting! We said our goodbyes and thanked the family for their hospitality. The tour then took us to the family’s shop where we were able to look and purchase beautiful and luxurious silks for prices that made us feel like we were stealing! I was also able to try on and eventually buy a traditional and very elegant dress of the Indian women. It is called a saree it comes in every color imaginable and is made of the finest silk that I have ever touched. The one I chose was a rich black with delicate yellow and gold designs. Each piece was intricately hand-stitched making it appear only for a queen.
The influence and heritage of British India was seen in many parts of the city. The Fort St. George, which contains St. Mary’s Church and the Fort Museum were beautiful landmarks displaying rich history. We then passed by Marina Beach, the second longest beach in the world after the beach in Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. Many people could be seen playing the popular sports of cricket and football (soccer). It was interesting to see though that no one was in the water due to the intense currents of the Bay of Bengal even though the temperatures continued to soar throughout the day. A monument constructed of Gandhi was in near the Marina. It was so rewarding to see that after studying about him and the enormous impact he had for this country. Passing the beach, we saw Madras University, or as it is known today as the University of Chennai, which is an elegantly designed structure with rich red bricks and trees outlining its gates. Then our tour led us to the oldest section of Chennai. Here we visited the San Thome Cathedral where the apostle Thomas was buried. It was vibrant white and relatively small compared to some of the cathedrals that I have seen in Europe. But its significance could not be matched. After removing our shoes, we descended down stairs which led to a dark corridor. The light was minimal and we could only see directly in front of us. When we entered the room where St. Thomas’ tomb was I was instantly overcome with a feeling that I was somewhere special. To be in a place where the apostle that physically touched Jesus after He rose from the dead was inconceivable. Goosebumps instantly took over my body and words were unable to be spoken. Pictures lined the walls near the door displaying images of Pope John Paul II visiting the tomb. What an honor to be in this place in this incredible country! From there we were taken to another religious site, a Hindu temple. With an ancient history and remarkable discipline from its believers, I was immediately interested in learning more about Hinduism. Each and every day the Hindi people travel to the temples to worship and perform rituals honoring their many gods. Statues and flowers were everywhere signifying their strong faith and beliefs.
That night was spent at a welcome reception which was hosted by local university students. Set in the courtyard of beautiful hotel, we were offered jasmine flower buds which smelled divine. Indian women in sarees applied kum-kum, the red dot of sandalwood paste on our foreheads and sprinkled us with rose water. Kate and I wore our new sarees along with other SAS students. It was so fun to be immersed in this fascinating culture! With Indian music in the background we talked with the students and shared stories about our lives. Many things were very different and yet many the same. The food was delicious, with spices that I have never tasted before. Now I know why India is referred to as the land of spices! After we were given henna tattoos on our hands and watched a Bharata Natyam dance, both traditional art forms. This dance is the subtle and sophisticated dance-art of Tamilnadu, according to the director. It is very dynamic and precise using a variety of complex body postures and movements. The dress was also something to be noted with gold jewelry dripping from every limb which added to the music of the dance. It was a superb evening, a perfect welcome to India!
The next day, Monday, offered a more intimate depiction of Hinduism. Our first stop was in a city called Kancheepuram, or Golden City. It is one of the seven most sacred places of pilgrimage for Hindus. It once was the home of more than a thousand temples but only a few hundred remain. One temple, the Kailasantha Temple, is over 1200 years old and paintings from the 7th and 8th centuries can still be seen today. Each temple is has layers and layers of sculptures and designs, some up to ten stories. Thousands of Hindus were worshipping and many preparing for an upcoming festival. Our guide told us that every Hindu participates in the preparations and actual celebration. This city is also well-known for its silk weaving and we were able to see it in action. The looms that the silk is woven on are large and appear difficult to maneuver. One of the weavers told us that he works on one saree for over 8 hours a day for 40 days. Each day he weaves only 35 centimeters! Incredible!
The next stop was in Mamallapuram, an ancient port city which is now a popular beach resort area. Here we visited the 1200 year old Shore Temple. It was by far the most stunning temple. Its background consisted of the Bay of Bengal and lush greenery surrounding it on all sides. People bathing in the waters and performing rituals provided another insight to Hinduism. From there we visited the Five Rathas, stone edifices which were sculpted and shaped into temple prototypes. Monkeys and goats were all over the premise, many coming right up to us. At one point we were surrounded by monkeys which looked like they were going to jump on us at any moment! A man with a monkey on a leash performed tricks for us and numerous street vendors tried to sell us handicrafts. It was the little children selling beads that got to me though. Looking into their eyes and seeing their frail, bony bodies was too much. Many of us helped the little ones make a few rupees (Indian currency). Appropriately enough, we then went to eat lunch at a luxurious restaurant not far from Mamallapuram. It was the transition from one extreme to the next that tried me the most. At one moment I was in the midst of starving children and the next I was at a five star restaurant about to feast on gourmet Indian food…quite the contradiction.
And this internal conflict remained with me for the rest of my time. However it became ever so apparent on Tuesday morning. Kate and I took a rickshaw to Missions of Charity, one of the many orphanages that Mother Theresa started. Here many children were rescued from the streets of Chennai or were brought here by their parents or the police. There were unwanted. Some suffer from mental retardation and others from birth defects, some because they are female, an inferior gender in this society.
Upon entering the gate, the first thing that we saw was a large statue of Mother Theresa and the Prayer of St. Francis of Assisi:
LORD, MAKE ME AN INSTRUMENT OF PEACE.
WHERE THERE IS HATRED, LET ME SOW LOVE
WHERE THERE IS INJURY, LET ME SOW PARDON
WHERE THERE IS FRICTION, LET ME SOW UNION
WHERE THERE IS ERROR, LET ME SOW TRUTH
WHERE THERE IS DOUBT, LET ME SOW FAITH
WHERE THERE IS DESPARI, LET ME SOW HOPE
WHERE THERE IS DARKNESS, LET ME SOW LIGHT
WHERE THERE IS SADNESS, LET ME SOW JOY
O DIVIVE MASTER,
GRANT THAT I MAY NOT SO MUCH SEEK
TO BE CONSOLED AS TO CONSOLE,
TO BE UNDERSTOOD, AS TO UNDERSTAND,
TO BE LOVE, AS TO LOVE
FOR IT IS IN GIVING THAT WE RECEIVE
FOR IT IS IN PARDONING THAT WE ARE PARDONED.
IT IS IN DYING THAT WE ARE BORN TO ETERNAL LIFE.
AMEN.
With that as an introduction, I can tell you that I was not prepared for what I was about to experience. We were greeted by Sister Wilfred who smiled when she saw us. We simply asked if we would be able to visit and help her in any way. She happily agreed and after we removed our sandals we were brought to the main house. As we climbed the stairs she stopped and turned to face us. With a somber look on her face she said, “I thank our Lord that you are here to help us. But I must tell you that many of the children are not well. Many are sick physically and mentally. Many are polio-stricken. Some can not walk or even lift their heads. Do not expect them to play with you or talk to you. Just talk to them and show them that you are there. All they want is love.” And with that we followed her into house.
Now I wish I were able to eloquently and accurately describe what happened next. I will try my very best to replicate the sights, sounds, and sensations of the hours I spent with these children. But I know that there are no words to truthfully describe what I experienced. One day I hope everyone will encounter something such as this which transforms you, transforms your soul.
Sister Wilfred brought us into the main room where older children were coloring and drawing at a table. Many were in wheelchairs and other apparatuses that held their bodies in an upright position. To the right was the nursery filled with tiny infants, or what appeared to be new born babies. I later found out that some were several months old but did not grow at normal rates. Then to the left was another room. I did not see any children in there but I could hear noise. As I neared the entrance I began to smell urine. Was it the bathroom I wondered or just another room? The door was cut in half, masking the lower portion of the entrance. I still could not see the source of the soft muffling and groaning. Then I did…five children were lying on a thin cushion. Their bodies bent in ways that I have never thought possible. Surely they must be in pain. But then again, they were probably born that way. Looking over the door, I could not move closer. I was frozen. My heart shattered and tears began to form. But they did not fall. As I stood there unable to move I asked myself why I wasn’t on the mat next to them comforting them, talking to them, showing them love like Sister Wilfred instructed. Still to this moment I do not know why I was not able to move at first but as difficult as it was I knew that I must. Lifting my leg over the bottom portion of the door, I recall moving slowly, looking for a place to sit. Others had joined me now and began talking to the children. One little boy had fallen off the mat so I approached him. His eyes consistently rolled back into his head and his arms and legs twisted and lurched. Not wanting him to be on the cold cement floor I picked up his body to move him to the mat. I had found the source of the urine. Unable to even keep his head up I expected this happens a lot. He could not have been more than 50 pounds, with his bones highly visible. Sister Wilfred told us that many of these children are actually older than they seem but their sickness hinders their growth. The room was quiet again with only a few soft noises coming from the children. I was now sitting next to the boy. His eyes still rolling and twitching. He was so helpless. And yet at the same time, he was beautiful. Quietly, I began talking to him. I don’t even remember what I said but the sound of my voice was soft and consistent. I lifted my hand to caress his back and noticed it was shaking horribly. Though I could not stop it I began to gently lay my fingers on his small back, letting him feel my touch. The shaking began to slow and talking to him became easier. Others in the room began talking as well and I think we all became comfortable with the children. After 20 minutes or so I heard a noise from the boy…different than any that I had heard before. When I looked at his face to see if he showed any signs of distress, I noticed his mouth moving. Slowly a smile formed on his face…and he began laughing! How incredible, moving, and ultimately life-changing that was for me! This little boy who can not walk or talk was smiling. Smiling because of a small touch. Like Sister Wilfred said, all these children need and want is love. And in a few moments of my time I was able to do just that. Now I can truly say I understand what St. Francis of Assisi meant in his prayer when he said, “For it is in giving that we receive.”
Walking away from that little boy was hard but I was comforted by Sister Wilfred when she said that it is these children, those that no one wants that God loves the most. The whole premise behind what Mother Theresa stood for was to love and give to those who had nothing. She herself did not have much. All she had was love. And she did more with that than any amount of money could do. More can be done with love than anything else. I think of that little boy…millions of dollars could not have made that boy smile. But a small, loving touch could. And it did.
A total of 85 children lived at this orphanage. Like I mentioned, many were very sick and could not even move. A small baby did not have her right arm or leg and all she could do was roll around on the floor. Others just sat and stared. But that does not take away from each one’s beauty. It wasn’t until after I spent time with them that I began to see this…it is almost as if I began to see these children how Mother Theresa would have seen them.
At noon we were asked to leave since visiting hours were closed. After saying goodbye to the children and other sisters we gave a donation to Sister Wilfred and thanked her for her time and the difference her life has made for those children. And the difference she made in our lives. It takes a special person to do what she does every day and I hope I will be able to make a difference like that as well.
Needless to say, my time in India will forever be defined by that extraordinary experience. If those few hours were all that I was allowed to have in India, I would have been grateful. Fortunately, I was blessed with much more!
Since it was Tuesday, Kate, Sashia, and I met up with Divya, our new Indian friend. She took us to all her favorite places in Chennai. Her favorite things to do are shop and see movies. We got to see her family again at one of their stores and she helped us get gifts for our families and friends. She is an amazing and outgoing person. We both agreed that we felt like we had known each other for years! She hopes to come to the States to visit, especially New York. We spent all day laughing and getting to know each another. It is amazing how similar we all are! We didn’t return to the ship until late but were exhausted from the day’s goodness.
Wednesday offered another insight into Indian life; however it was different than what I had already seen. The day consisted of a tour of a rural farm village where I was able to interact with locals. We saw how they lived and though it was very simple and humble, provided them with all that they needed to live a happy life. We were able to go to a rice paddy and help the farmers harvest the rice. Then we went to a peanut field and picked peanuts from the ground! It is actually harder than I thought. Who knew there was an art to peanut-picking! After that we rode bullock carts, large wooden carts pulled by two large cows, to a coconut fart. Here we watched a man climb 30 foot palm trees to cut down coconuts for us to enjoy. Another art form that is harder than it looks! Following the coconut refreshments we went to Dakshina Chitra Heritage Village. Here we were able to see what life was like for Indians in the early 1800s. Traditional craftsmen and folk artists were on sight to demonstrate how they made silk, pottery, etc. One man was a glass blower and made beautiful arts and crafts from only fire and glass. The tour lasted all day and by the time we returned to the ship the sun and heat had gotten the best of me. And the funny thing is that it isn’t summer yet! And I thought I liked the heat!
Our final day in Chennai, Thursday, presented yet another adventure. Lindsay and I began the day early with errands and shopping to be accomplished. Now even though I have yet to mention the art of rickshaw bargaining, I feel it is relevant and well, just interesting to understand. So when people from the ship leave the gates of the ship entrance, they are instantly bombarded by rickshaw drivers trying to get them to come with them. They will shout and pull and demand that you come with them. At first this was a little frightening. But after much practice it becomes easier to do. So Lindsay and I began bargaining with a few drivers and finally got a price which we agreed upon. We told our driver that we had three stops: the shopping market, Post Office, and an Internet cafe. In the driver’s defense we did get to all of our locations…however in reverse order. No problem. However, let me just say that riding in one of these things makes shark diving, bungee jumping, and sky diving look like a relaxing walk in the park. It was literally a brush with death every time we got into one of them. But it was awesome! OK, it was a little nerve-racking at first…but what could we do? By the end of the first ride we were all laughing hysterically thinking “if only our parents could see what we were doing now!” Thankfully, we survived each and every encounter with the rickshaw. Oh, and I can’t forget to mention that when you say that you want to go shopping at a particular place, say Spencer’s Plaza, they first say that it is closed. Then they will take you to another “good” shop. It wasn’t too long that we found out that indeed Spencer’s was not closed and the driver gets a commission each time he brings people to the “good” shops. So after Lindsay and I went to the Internet café we were brought to a “good” shop…then to Spencer’s. We realized too that we couldn’t get mad. It was all a part of the adventure! After a few hours shopping we headed back to the ship to meet up with other friends to go out for one last Indian meal. Unfortunately, even though we tried really hard to find a place to eat where someone from the ship hadn’t gotten sick from, we ended up back at Spencer’s and well let me just say…we ate at Pizza Hut. I know, I know. Our last meal in India and we go there…well at least we didn’t get sick!
While waiting for the ship to set sail again, we all chatted about our time in India. It stirred every emotion and awaked those that many had become dormant. There were adventures and trials, smiles and tear. But that is why India was so unique…
Looking back to less than a week ago I remember being so excited as well as anxious about visiting India. The closer the ship sailed to Chennai the more restless I became thinking and wondering about the experiences that were to be before me. Now my time in India has come to a close and all the things that I saw and did are imprinted as memories and pictures. What is more is that I came to a realization that our world, which can seem big at times, is very small. People from India are just like the people in South Africa. Or Brazil. Or Puerto Rico. And yes, like the folks in Lake Shore. Of course, we all live different lives with various religions, cultures, and traditions. But we are all the same; from an Indian rickshaw driver, to an HIV positive child in South Africa, to the mailman in Nisswa, each and every one of these beings is living within the same world. And it is because of a place called India that I know now more than ever…all we need is love.
Friday, March 23, 2007
Before India...
What is conflict? What is peace? These were the two questions from this morning’s Global Studies class. To tell you the truth, I am not sure I fully comprehend what these two concepts truly are. As I prepare to set foot in India in a matter of days I can’t help but feel inadequately prepared for what I am about to see, hear, feel, and learn. Don’t get me wrong, I have anticipated this country and this experience since I learned about Semester at Sea. But as the Explorer nears India’s shores, I know I am in for something like I have never experienced. I have only one expectation…to expect nothing so that I will be open to everything. I know I am ignorant to what really occurs in our world. The thoughts of all the violence, inequality, scandals, etc are overwhelming. Though, I feel that by coming face to face with these realities I will be better equipped to help others and promote change. There is a concept that I learned from Archbishop Desmond Tutu called ‘Ubunto’ which states that what ever is done to one human being is done to me. All the despair, hunger, disease, violence, rape, war, and injustice are done to me. To you. To everyone. While we may not personally and physically undergo these disturbing things, we do experience them metaphorically. And now more than ever am I beginning to understand this. Yes, I have issues. I get stressed out about school, jobs, etc. But I don’t have to worry about my next meal or if I will be abducted or if I will be beaten. So do I ignore the fact that my brothers and sisters are being treated like this? Do I withdraw and become numb? No. Life is about living…each moment, good or bad, for better or worse. This is me and my thoughts now and how I am trying to prepare myself. I wanted to document these feelings that have been stirring inside of me for the past week. In another week’s time I do not know if I will feel these things or if I will be feeling something completely different. All I do know is that, ready or not, India is only a few hundred miles away…
Mauritius
With only three days in this country I was only able to see and experience a small portion of this island. Even though it is a small island, it offers much to the newcomer. With white sand beaches, warm breezes, and inviting water…it was like a paradise. It is a country that is very diverse with people and cultures from many areas. A large presence of Indian influence can be seen as well as French, Creole, Dutch and African. I was thankful to have the time that we did even though it was limited. Many of us went to a beach 45 minutes from Port Louis, the capital and where the Explorer was docked. We rented villas and were able to enjoy a “spring break” type of atmosphere. Unfortunately I did not take any pictures because we were told that the villas some times got broken into…thankfully that did not happen but I didn’t want to take the risk and lose my camera. I would suggest people visit here. I heard the diving was good and some people went on catamarans trips. On the last day I found out about swimming with dolphins in the wild…and that is something I would have LOVED to do. Next time. I did have a service trip on the first day but it was cancelled due to a late arrival into port. For a couple of days from South Africa to Mauritius we experienced ‘turbulence’ or in ship terms rolling and waning…I would like to describe it as bouncing from one wall to the other while walking in the halls! Kate and I were suddenly woken up at 4 am the day before we got to Port Louis…we literally flew up off our beds and everything fell from the desks and shelves. After the shock of what just happened it was quite funny. So needless to say we were a little late getting in. All in all, the time we had was fun and filled with good times with friends.
Saturday, March 17, 2007
Another link for more pictures!
http://sandiego.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2031261&l=7f3c2&id=24502700
Finally...the goodness of South Africa!
As I said, my welcome to Cape Town was remarkable but the best thing my time was that it got better with each day, each moment was great in its own way. From the moment I stepped off the gangway and onto Jetty 2 at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, or most commonly referred to as the Waterfront, I was astonished to see how developed and wealthy this part of town was even though it was very touristy. Several restaurants, cafes, and shops lined the walk from the ship and the surrounding bay. It had a very European feel to it but always reflected its African heritage. The weather reminded my of a typical San Diego summer day, a warm breeze and not a single cloud in the sky. It was interesting though that these conditions change quickly and frequently. The wind will pick up and clouds can come in minutes bringing the infamous Table Cloth over Table Mountain. Fortunately, we were blessed to have stunning weather for the majority of our time. The first afternoon in port was spent on a city tour. This was a great way to get acquainted with the city and see it from a local’s perspective. We visited the Castle of Good Hope, a botanical garden in the heart of the downtown area were we enjoyed tea and scones, an interesting Natural History museum, Parliament building, and St. Stephen’s Cathedral. There was an intense amount of information given by our friendly tour guide; she spoke on the various sites as well as the country as a whole. What fascinated my most were her thoughts on the HIV/AIDS pandemic in her country. She displayed such compassion for those who are infected and described to us the challenges faced by millions and millions of people. It is a very eye-opening experience for me to actually see and hear the effects of this disturbing disease instead of just reading about it. That evening was spent on Long Street, a very fun and active area at night. Dinner was at a popular restaurant called Mama Africa’s where I ate delicious crocodile and our group enjoyed some South African wine. Following that feast we went across the street to a club called Cool Runnings. It was very fun spot to dance and drink but it was very influenced by America so the music wasn’t different to what I usually hear.
The next Morning the winds blew in rain clouds and the entire day was wet and gray. Kate and I were planning on climbing Table Mountain but learned very quickly to be flexible and change plans. So we went to a music store at the Waterfront and listened to some African drums and had coffee and lunch. We also felt like this was the most appropriate day to get the shopping out of the way so we headed off the Craft Market and spent the remaining hours of the afternoon getting souvenirs and gifts for family and friends. That evening we went to Vicky’s B&B…
On Sunday after our return from the unique experience at Vicky’s, Kate and I took the cable car up Table Mountain…we wanted to hike it but there wasn’t enough time left in the day. Luckily though we caught the sunset and took pictures of some of the most spectacular vistas I have ever seen. The coast and the city were brilliant. Seeing the city from the top was mesmerizing! In typical Kate and Katie style, we felt that the moment needed to be celebrated with our most favorite drink…coffee! It was such a great feeling to finally be at Table Mountain since we have been talking about it for such a long time! After we got back from the mountain we went to dinner with Charlene and Jessie, two of the girls who went to Vicky’s with us, at a seafood restaurant called Ocean Basket. We had delicious sushi and a South African beer, Castle Lite. It was quite good and an adequate substitute for the restaurant’s lack of sake! Kate and I were pretty tired from the day’s events but decided quickly after hearing some live music that sleep was not in the near future…at least not while in South Africa. We wanted to be awake for every moment! So I told Kate that we should have a glass of wine and listen for a while…we couldn’t stay out too late I told her since we had Shark Cage Diving in the morning…however, as we walked into Alba, a swanky little lounge, we quickly noted that this was not going to happen! The place was filled with local South Africans, many of which were easy on the eyes…and ended up having a second glass. We chatted with a few of the musicians and they loved our accents! We were thinking the other way around! Many of them were attending the University of Cape Town and gave me tips on transferring…or at least Graduate school!
Bright and early, Kate and I woke up for our exciting and adrenaline filled day of shark diving! We were picked up at the ship and rode in a big van 2 hours to Dyer Island…one of the most notorious places for the Great White. We got dropped off at the loading/docking area and boarded the boat. The ride out was a little rough; it almost felt as if we were on a roller coaster! The boat stopped about a mile from shore but was near Dyer Island. After a short introduction to cage diving…which was brief considering I was about to jump into a little metal cage with an 8 foot great white! The water was a little chilly so luckily we had wetsuits. The bait, called chum, was thrown out and we waited about 20 minutes to see our first fin…the tour guides quickly told us to get into the cage. It was funny because that was definitely not the first reaction when I saw that a great white was coming! But it didn’t stop me…I jumped in and four other people jumped next me. Then it got quiet. I remember floating in the cage thinking that this was such a crazy yet amazing thing! I was in the water not even 2 minutes and the guides yelled for us to take a breath and look straight ahead. We didn’t have scuba gear, just goggles and a wetsuit. We were also told to not hold on to the bars of the cage but there was one small bar inside that would protect our fingers! So we took a breath and dropped down 5 or 6 feet and not even 5 seconds later thousands of teeth were at eye level! It was crazy! I have jumped out of a plane and off a bridge but this was the most realistic threat that I have felt. I don’t want to give the impression that the sharks brought fear but I definitely felt like the shark’s lunch! We ended up seeing three different sharks during the trip and seeing the power and strength of these animals was awesome! I would definitely recommend it was for everyone, or at least for those who aren’t faint of heart!
Now for a day that used less adrenaline…Tuesday was spent in the beautiful wine lands of Stellenbosch. South Africa is filled with vineyards and I was able to visit four of the best in the area. I was joined by Kate, Shanna, Jenny, Julie, Tiffany, and Claire. We took a tour that was organized by Stumble Inn, the hostel that Kate, Shanna, and I stayed at for the night. Our tour guide was fantastic. We actually had two, Lucas and Hantus. However the seven of us were shuttled from vineyard to vineyard by Hantus. It was quite the deal…we were able to “taste” the wine and we had someone driving us around the entire time! He was definitely a great designate driver! We were instructed how to properly smell and taste red and white wines and started the day with champagne at noon! Talk about starting early! Our first vineyard, Simonsig, was quite lovely. We tasted four different wines, all of which were nice. Then we went to Fairview Winery where they are famous for their goat tower. They actually have goats that produce their famous cheese (delicious) and they built a tower for them to climb! Very fun. This was the vineyard that made the most exquisite wine. Now I do not have a refined enough of a palate to know much but the 2006 Spice Route Pinotage was heavenly! It is a red that is soft with a hint of banana and vanilla…absolutely divine! After our 6 “tastings” of wine and cheese we were in need of lunch. I can’t describe how fun this was…all of us girls laughing and enjoying ourselves with amazing guides accommodating our every need. And I learned so much about wine and it makes me appreciate it even more! Lunch was served promptly when we arrived at this cute little café and then it was off to the third vineyard. Now this was the most elegant vineyard in terms of its location. Nestled between two magnificent mountains with towering trees outlining the Dutch styled homes and buildings, the Dieu Donne, was a quite a sight! The wind was soft and warm and we enjoyed our wine sitting on the lush grass overlooking the acres upon acres of vines and grapes. Our fourth and final vineyard was called Boschendal, the second oldest estate in South Africa. This was another charming and romantic place. The large house was surrounded by the vines with the mountain in its backyard. A large and leafy tree engulfed the wine cellars. Our wine was elegantly chosen for us and we were able to taste a rose, two whites, two reds, and a sparkling. We sat in the cool shade under the tree and reflected on our time and how lucky we all were to be able to see and experience this place as well as the country that is South Africa. It was getting time to go but our guide gave us a challenge. We were told to guess the age of the large tree and whoever guessed correctly would get a bottle of wine. We all wrote down numbers, mine was 278…the exact age! How funny…so I decided that I would have to commemorate with a picture with the tree! Our wine tasting trip was drawing to a close (and I think we were all glad to not have to drink anymore) so we headed back to the hostel. It was very nice, different than what I was expecting! Kate, Shanna, and I went to dinner at Moyo, a popular African restaurant this is nestled in trees with even tables built at the tops of trees! It was an all you can eat experience with ostrich, water buffalo, and any kind of meat imaginable. There was so much food…but let me tell you about the desserts…scrumptious! I definitely felt like a Briggs that evening! (Sorry only family will understand that!) It was a great atmosphere too with drums and dancers entertaining the entire restaurant. We left at 10 and venture to a little place in Stellenbosch called NuBar, the trendy hangout for the university students in the area. It was so much fun! Then it was back to Stumble Inn for a great night’s sleep!
Wednesday was a great day...I participated in a service project called Africa Jam. Ellen, who is originally from Minnesota, started this Christian organization about 7 years ago when she came to South Africa. She met some people in the townships and was so moved by the people that she knew she wanted to be involved in their life and do something positive for them. Now Africa Jam has many members in various townships in the Cape Town area and all the young adults and children participate in after school activities such as drama, worship, and recreation. A group of 20 or so SAS students joined Ellen and two guides to Khayelitsha Township for such a unique day. We started out with lunch which consisted of Gatsby’s, a huge sub-style sandwich filled with meat, lettuce, tomato, and French fries. They were tasty but too large to eat it all. Afterward we were taken to the same spot that overlooks all of Khayelitsha. The two guides, Louiso and Winston both from townships, were filling our ears with so much information. The things that they see everyday and have to experience are things that I would never see in a lifetime if I were to remain at home. There is something positive about learning about all the negative things that go on in the world. I don’t know if it is losing the ignorance or actually seeing these things with my own eyes. I guess I will have to continue learning and embracing the opportunities to find an answer. After our 360 degree view of the jumble of colorful shacks we went into a part of the township. We were greeted by several children and teens…all with ear to ear smiles. Some were even jumping up and down in excitement! When I got out of the van kids instantly came up to me and hugged me and asked my name. They were so excited to tell me about their lives and where they live. There smiles and laughing were infectious…we all couldn’t help but join them! The first thing we did with the kids was a tour. Two students paired up with two kids from Khayelitsha and we were taken to their homes, met their families, and saw the area that was considered their own community. Sadly, these beautiful people are living among some of the worst living conditions that I have ever seen. Garbage lined the streets and water was scarce. Some homes did have running water and electricity but the majority went without. Malnourished dogs ran wild and the sanitation was, well let me just say that an outhouse looked first class. However, as I was led by two young girls none of this seems to bother them. They were too excited to share their lives with me, a perfect stranger. I couldn’t help but feel lucky to be at that place at that time. As we continued to walk, I noticed a large blue and white tent in a center of a few homes. I asked one of the girls what was going on. Thinking it was for a festival or party, I was shocked to hear that it was for a memorial for one of their friends who was killed two days earlier. She continued to tell me that he was killed by a gang in another township. She left no details out informing me that he tried to run away but was shot in both knees then stoned to death. As horrible as it is for me to write this for all of you to read, it has taught me something about reflecting on it. How could such things happen to innocent people? I am not trying to be naïve because I know that worse things occur every moment around the world but for some reason I felt like it had happened to a close friend of mine. It was an indescribable feeling. Having just been introduced to these two girls and having them open their lives for someone they just met made me feel like we had a unique connection and that their pain became mine. Then the most beautiful thing happened. One of the girls looked up at me. “Please don’t be sad for us,” she said softly. “This kind of thing happens a lot. But that is why we all have to have good relationships with each other. We don’t take for granted any moment because we never know if we will be here tomorrow.” I wish I could write the emotions that stirred within me. I was so upset and then came anger…but then she hugged me and there was a beautiful sense of comfort. I tightly hugged her back, thanking her for sharing her stories and love. Following that amazing revelation, the entire group gathered together at a metal shed. Here we watched as the members of Africa Jam sang, danced, and performed drama for us. Each one was so talented and their material was very moving. Little time was left for pictures so we all tried to capture memories and thanked one another for the difference that was made in each of our lives. From Khayelitsha we were taken to Camps Bay for our traditional African dinner. Now this area is by far the most exquisite place I have seen. With Table Mountain on one side and the Atlantic and white beaches on the other, it felt like Heaven. The home where we ate sat right on beach with views of all that I just described. Our dinner was fantastic and band member of Africa Jam played all night long. I was able to mingle with those who started this organization and learn more about what they do and how I could help. Just being a part of something as positive as this is what I hope to be able to do one day. The evening concluded with hugs and tears…what an experience!
The last day in Cape Town was bittersweet. I had so many emotions attached to this place now. Happy that I was able to do and see all that I did, I couldn’t help but be sad too. Kate and I wanted to start the last day like we started the first so we had tea on the Waterfront and chatted about the last week. Time certainly flew but we embraced every moment that came our way. The day was a simple one. We did a little more shopping, went to the internet café, and chatted with friends. I think everyone felt the same way about leaving. So we had one last meal, fish and chips, and boarded the MV Explorer. As we sailed away, I was warmed by the thoughts and experiences that I was able to have in the amazing country that is South Africa. It encompasses everything: rich and poor, black and white, old and new, young and old. I will cherish each day that I had in this place and I want to share with anyone and everyone the goodness that I experienced. And I know this…I will be back.
The next Morning the winds blew in rain clouds and the entire day was wet and gray. Kate and I were planning on climbing Table Mountain but learned very quickly to be flexible and change plans. So we went to a music store at the Waterfront and listened to some African drums and had coffee and lunch. We also felt like this was the most appropriate day to get the shopping out of the way so we headed off the Craft Market and spent the remaining hours of the afternoon getting souvenirs and gifts for family and friends. That evening we went to Vicky’s B&B…
On Sunday after our return from the unique experience at Vicky’s, Kate and I took the cable car up Table Mountain…we wanted to hike it but there wasn’t enough time left in the day. Luckily though we caught the sunset and took pictures of some of the most spectacular vistas I have ever seen. The coast and the city were brilliant. Seeing the city from the top was mesmerizing! In typical Kate and Katie style, we felt that the moment needed to be celebrated with our most favorite drink…coffee! It was such a great feeling to finally be at Table Mountain since we have been talking about it for such a long time! After we got back from the mountain we went to dinner with Charlene and Jessie, two of the girls who went to Vicky’s with us, at a seafood restaurant called Ocean Basket. We had delicious sushi and a South African beer, Castle Lite. It was quite good and an adequate substitute for the restaurant’s lack of sake! Kate and I were pretty tired from the day’s events but decided quickly after hearing some live music that sleep was not in the near future…at least not while in South Africa. We wanted to be awake for every moment! So I told Kate that we should have a glass of wine and listen for a while…we couldn’t stay out too late I told her since we had Shark Cage Diving in the morning…however, as we walked into Alba, a swanky little lounge, we quickly noted that this was not going to happen! The place was filled with local South Africans, many of which were easy on the eyes…and ended up having a second glass. We chatted with a few of the musicians and they loved our accents! We were thinking the other way around! Many of them were attending the University of Cape Town and gave me tips on transferring…or at least Graduate school!
Bright and early, Kate and I woke up for our exciting and adrenaline filled day of shark diving! We were picked up at the ship and rode in a big van 2 hours to Dyer Island…one of the most notorious places for the Great White. We got dropped off at the loading/docking area and boarded the boat. The ride out was a little rough; it almost felt as if we were on a roller coaster! The boat stopped about a mile from shore but was near Dyer Island. After a short introduction to cage diving…which was brief considering I was about to jump into a little metal cage with an 8 foot great white! The water was a little chilly so luckily we had wetsuits. The bait, called chum, was thrown out and we waited about 20 minutes to see our first fin…the tour guides quickly told us to get into the cage. It was funny because that was definitely not the first reaction when I saw that a great white was coming! But it didn’t stop me…I jumped in and four other people jumped next me. Then it got quiet. I remember floating in the cage thinking that this was such a crazy yet amazing thing! I was in the water not even 2 minutes and the guides yelled for us to take a breath and look straight ahead. We didn’t have scuba gear, just goggles and a wetsuit. We were also told to not hold on to the bars of the cage but there was one small bar inside that would protect our fingers! So we took a breath and dropped down 5 or 6 feet and not even 5 seconds later thousands of teeth were at eye level! It was crazy! I have jumped out of a plane and off a bridge but this was the most realistic threat that I have felt. I don’t want to give the impression that the sharks brought fear but I definitely felt like the shark’s lunch! We ended up seeing three different sharks during the trip and seeing the power and strength of these animals was awesome! I would definitely recommend it was for everyone, or at least for those who aren’t faint of heart!
Now for a day that used less adrenaline…Tuesday was spent in the beautiful wine lands of Stellenbosch. South Africa is filled with vineyards and I was able to visit four of the best in the area. I was joined by Kate, Shanna, Jenny, Julie, Tiffany, and Claire. We took a tour that was organized by Stumble Inn, the hostel that Kate, Shanna, and I stayed at for the night. Our tour guide was fantastic. We actually had two, Lucas and Hantus. However the seven of us were shuttled from vineyard to vineyard by Hantus. It was quite the deal…we were able to “taste” the wine and we had someone driving us around the entire time! He was definitely a great designate driver! We were instructed how to properly smell and taste red and white wines and started the day with champagne at noon! Talk about starting early! Our first vineyard, Simonsig, was quite lovely. We tasted four different wines, all of which were nice. Then we went to Fairview Winery where they are famous for their goat tower. They actually have goats that produce their famous cheese (delicious) and they built a tower for them to climb! Very fun. This was the vineyard that made the most exquisite wine. Now I do not have a refined enough of a palate to know much but the 2006 Spice Route Pinotage was heavenly! It is a red that is soft with a hint of banana and vanilla…absolutely divine! After our 6 “tastings” of wine and cheese we were in need of lunch. I can’t describe how fun this was…all of us girls laughing and enjoying ourselves with amazing guides accommodating our every need. And I learned so much about wine and it makes me appreciate it even more! Lunch was served promptly when we arrived at this cute little café and then it was off to the third vineyard. Now this was the most elegant vineyard in terms of its location. Nestled between two magnificent mountains with towering trees outlining the Dutch styled homes and buildings, the Dieu Donne, was a quite a sight! The wind was soft and warm and we enjoyed our wine sitting on the lush grass overlooking the acres upon acres of vines and grapes. Our fourth and final vineyard was called Boschendal, the second oldest estate in South Africa. This was another charming and romantic place. The large house was surrounded by the vines with the mountain in its backyard. A large and leafy tree engulfed the wine cellars. Our wine was elegantly chosen for us and we were able to taste a rose, two whites, two reds, and a sparkling. We sat in the cool shade under the tree and reflected on our time and how lucky we all were to be able to see and experience this place as well as the country that is South Africa. It was getting time to go but our guide gave us a challenge. We were told to guess the age of the large tree and whoever guessed correctly would get a bottle of wine. We all wrote down numbers, mine was 278…the exact age! How funny…so I decided that I would have to commemorate with a picture with the tree! Our wine tasting trip was drawing to a close (and I think we were all glad to not have to drink anymore) so we headed back to the hostel. It was very nice, different than what I was expecting! Kate, Shanna, and I went to dinner at Moyo, a popular African restaurant this is nestled in trees with even tables built at the tops of trees! It was an all you can eat experience with ostrich, water buffalo, and any kind of meat imaginable. There was so much food…but let me tell you about the desserts…scrumptious! I definitely felt like a Briggs that evening! (Sorry only family will understand that!) It was a great atmosphere too with drums and dancers entertaining the entire restaurant. We left at 10 and venture to a little place in Stellenbosch called NuBar, the trendy hangout for the university students in the area. It was so much fun! Then it was back to Stumble Inn for a great night’s sleep!
Wednesday was a great day...I participated in a service project called Africa Jam. Ellen, who is originally from Minnesota, started this Christian organization about 7 years ago when she came to South Africa. She met some people in the townships and was so moved by the people that she knew she wanted to be involved in their life and do something positive for them. Now Africa Jam has many members in various townships in the Cape Town area and all the young adults and children participate in after school activities such as drama, worship, and recreation. A group of 20 or so SAS students joined Ellen and two guides to Khayelitsha Township for such a unique day. We started out with lunch which consisted of Gatsby’s, a huge sub-style sandwich filled with meat, lettuce, tomato, and French fries. They were tasty but too large to eat it all. Afterward we were taken to the same spot that overlooks all of Khayelitsha. The two guides, Louiso and Winston both from townships, were filling our ears with so much information. The things that they see everyday and have to experience are things that I would never see in a lifetime if I were to remain at home. There is something positive about learning about all the negative things that go on in the world. I don’t know if it is losing the ignorance or actually seeing these things with my own eyes. I guess I will have to continue learning and embracing the opportunities to find an answer. After our 360 degree view of the jumble of colorful shacks we went into a part of the township. We were greeted by several children and teens…all with ear to ear smiles. Some were even jumping up and down in excitement! When I got out of the van kids instantly came up to me and hugged me and asked my name. They were so excited to tell me about their lives and where they live. There smiles and laughing were infectious…we all couldn’t help but join them! The first thing we did with the kids was a tour. Two students paired up with two kids from Khayelitsha and we were taken to their homes, met their families, and saw the area that was considered their own community. Sadly, these beautiful people are living among some of the worst living conditions that I have ever seen. Garbage lined the streets and water was scarce. Some homes did have running water and electricity but the majority went without. Malnourished dogs ran wild and the sanitation was, well let me just say that an outhouse looked first class. However, as I was led by two young girls none of this seems to bother them. They were too excited to share their lives with me, a perfect stranger. I couldn’t help but feel lucky to be at that place at that time. As we continued to walk, I noticed a large blue and white tent in a center of a few homes. I asked one of the girls what was going on. Thinking it was for a festival or party, I was shocked to hear that it was for a memorial for one of their friends who was killed two days earlier. She continued to tell me that he was killed by a gang in another township. She left no details out informing me that he tried to run away but was shot in both knees then stoned to death. As horrible as it is for me to write this for all of you to read, it has taught me something about reflecting on it. How could such things happen to innocent people? I am not trying to be naïve because I know that worse things occur every moment around the world but for some reason I felt like it had happened to a close friend of mine. It was an indescribable feeling. Having just been introduced to these two girls and having them open their lives for someone they just met made me feel like we had a unique connection and that their pain became mine. Then the most beautiful thing happened. One of the girls looked up at me. “Please don’t be sad for us,” she said softly. “This kind of thing happens a lot. But that is why we all have to have good relationships with each other. We don’t take for granted any moment because we never know if we will be here tomorrow.” I wish I could write the emotions that stirred within me. I was so upset and then came anger…but then she hugged me and there was a beautiful sense of comfort. I tightly hugged her back, thanking her for sharing her stories and love. Following that amazing revelation, the entire group gathered together at a metal shed. Here we watched as the members of Africa Jam sang, danced, and performed drama for us. Each one was so talented and their material was very moving. Little time was left for pictures so we all tried to capture memories and thanked one another for the difference that was made in each of our lives. From Khayelitsha we were taken to Camps Bay for our traditional African dinner. Now this area is by far the most exquisite place I have seen. With Table Mountain on one side and the Atlantic and white beaches on the other, it felt like Heaven. The home where we ate sat right on beach with views of all that I just described. Our dinner was fantastic and band member of Africa Jam played all night long. I was able to mingle with those who started this organization and learn more about what they do and how I could help. Just being a part of something as positive as this is what I hope to be able to do one day. The evening concluded with hugs and tears…what an experience!
The last day in Cape Town was bittersweet. I had so many emotions attached to this place now. Happy that I was able to do and see all that I did, I couldn’t help but be sad too. Kate and I wanted to start the last day like we started the first so we had tea on the Waterfront and chatted about the last week. Time certainly flew but we embraced every moment that came our way. The day was a simple one. We did a little more shopping, went to the internet café, and chatted with friends. I think everyone felt the same way about leaving. So we had one last meal, fish and chips, and boarded the MV Explorer. As we sailed away, I was warmed by the thoughts and experiences that I was able to have in the amazing country that is South Africa. It encompasses everything: rich and poor, black and white, old and new, young and old. I will cherish each day that I had in this place and I want to share with anyone and everyone the goodness that I experienced. And I know this…I will be back.
Thursday, March 8, 2007
More posts coming soon!
I will be posting more about what these pictures are as well as details from an amazing 7 days!
Vicky's B&B
It is very easy to see why Cape Town is one of the most beautiful places on Earth. But what most people do not see, or atleast not right away, is that there are things which are not easy on the eyes. There are millions of people living in poverty. Many of which live in places called townships. I was privileged enough to actually stay overnight at a family's humble home. Made of tin and cement, thousands of these shacks are lined up on the outskirts of Cape Town. Kate, Jenny, Julie, Charlene, Jessie, and I all stayed at Vicky's B&B and had a once in a life time experience. What I learned could fill page after page after page. She took us around her home, and gave us a tour of her community and even let us go to church with her. I will never forget the kindness and comfort that I felt while sleeping, eating, and living in their home. Vicky, who started this business out of her own home said, "It may not look like much on the outside, but once you get inside, you see it is a home." I think she was talking about a lot more than just her home...a simple lesson that things are not what they seem. She was truly an inspiration to me...her faith, hope, and above all, her love that she had was beyond anything that I have ever seen.
Cape Town
My arrival into South Africa could not have been more breathtaking...I and the entire ship were greeted by the most spectacular sunrise over Table Mountain in Cape Town. These pictures simply do not do the vistas justice. So much has occurred since that memorable morning and I hope to relay in my post how much I am in love...with this country. Its people, the culture, and the energy consume each and every individual that steps foot in Mother Africa...and now I am finding it very difficult to leave this place. Every person that I have met has welcomed me with open arms. I seriously have never met such a quantity of quality people in one place...and I come from Minnesota where there is so many good people. Truly there is something about Cape Town and those who live here. Each person extends the warmest of welcomes and makes you feel like family. I only hope that every person is able to see and experience South Africa. As I said, I am struggling with the fact that I have to leave Cape Town in only a few short hours. But I have faith that I will be back...and soon. A lovely lady gave me some good advice...do not be sad that you have to go. Enjoy where you are going and where you are...but always know that you can come back...and that is exactly what I plan on doing!
Thursday, March 1, 2007
Neptune Day, BBQ, Sea Social, and Class with Archbishop Desmond Tutu
With one of our longest lags almost behind us and South Africa only 8 hours away…I wish I could be able to describe how I am feeling. It has been such a challenge to contain the excitement; the entire ship is full of this energy! Since departing from Brazil there has been much activity on the MV Explorer. Of course I have had class everyday with many tests and papers. We did get one day off, the second day at sea. It was called Neptune Day, a day where the entire ship pays homage to King Neptune (Poseidon) since we are at His mercy while at sea! Prior to initiation, all the shipmates are Pollywogs and the only way to become the honorable and worthy Shellbacks is to do one or both of the following: 1. Shave your head or 2. Get fish guts poured all over you. It was an easy choice for me…I chose the FISH GUTS! Many people shaved their heads, a respectable yet crazy thing to do! We then had to jump into the pool, kiss a fish, and finally kiss the ring of King Neptune (Captain Jeremy)! Another first for me! The rest of the day we were able to enjoy the sun and each other’s company. The evening concluded with a delicious BBQ on Deck 7 and Pub night. A couple days later our Sea (cabin hall) had our first Sea Social. All of us that are a part of the Adriatic Sea dressed up for the theme, “A Private Affair” and had tasty snacks and fun music. Everyone is just so excited for this port…and the one most welcoming is the one and only Archbishop Desmond Tutu! During Global Studies we have had the privilege of being addressed by the compassionate, kind, and hilariously funny Archbishop. His words kept everyone on the edge of his or her seat. He is so animated and articulates his thoughts beautifully. His discussion included a wide range of topics from apartheid in South Africa to peace to thanking young people, whom he holds in highest regard. How wonderful it felt to have a Nobel Peace Prize Laureate thank us for what we did to end apartheid. I couldn’t believe it…coming from one of the most influential persons responsible for such a peaceful closing to a horrible situation. All I can say is that he is the definition of selfless. All in all, these past 8 days leading to my arrival in Cape Town has been filled with many great and inspirational moments. Now I am going to prepare for a much anticipated sunrise over the glorious Table Mountain to greet me and my shipmates. I can only wonder though, how much better can this get?!!!
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