Finally...the goodness of South Africa!

As I said, my welcome to Cape Town was remarkable but the best thing my time was that it got better with each day, each moment was great in its own way. From the moment I stepped off the gangway and onto Jetty 2 at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, or most commonly referred to as the Waterfront, I was astonished to see how developed and wealthy this part of town was even though it was very touristy. Several restaurants, cafes, and shops lined the walk from the ship and the surrounding bay. It had a very European feel to it but always reflected its African heritage. The weather reminded my of a typical San Diego summer day, a warm breeze and not a single cloud in the sky. It was interesting though that these conditions change quickly and frequently. The wind will pick up and clouds can come in minutes bringing the infamous Table Cloth over Table Mountain. Fortunately, we were blessed to have stunning weather for the majority of our time. The first afternoon in port was spent on a city tour. This was a great way to get acquainted with the city and see it from a local’s perspective. We visited the Castle of Good Hope, a botanical garden in the heart of the downtown area were we enjoyed tea and scones, an interesting Natural History museum, Parliament building, and St. Stephen’s Cathedral. There was an intense amount of information given by our friendly tour guide; she spoke on the various sites as well as the country as a whole. What fascinated my most were her thoughts on the HIV/AIDS pandemic in her country. She displayed such compassion for those who are infected and described to us the challenges faced by millions and millions of people. It is a very eye-opening experience for me to actually see and hear the effects of this disturbing disease instead of just reading about it. That evening was spent on Long Street, a very fun and active area at night. Dinner was at a popular restaurant called Mama Africa’s where I ate delicious crocodile and our group enjoyed some South African wine. Following that feast we went across the street to a club called Cool Runnings. It was very fun spot to dance and drink but it was very influenced by America so the music wasn’t different to what I usually hear.

The next Morning the winds blew in rain clouds and the entire day was wet and gray. Kate and I were planning on climbing Table Mountain but learned very quickly to be flexible and change plans. So we went to a music store at the Waterfront and listened to some African drums and had coffee and lunch. We also felt like this was the most appropriate day to get the shopping out of the way so we headed off the Craft Market and spent the remaining hours of the afternoon getting souvenirs and gifts for family and friends. That evening we went to Vicky’s B&B…

On Sunday after our return from the unique experience at Vicky’s, Kate and I took the cable car up Table Mountain…we wanted to hike it but there wasn’t enough time left in the day. Luckily though we caught the sunset and took pictures of some of the most spectacular vistas I have ever seen. The coast and the city were brilliant. Seeing the city from the top was mesmerizing! In typical Kate and Katie style, we felt that the moment needed to be celebrated with our most favorite drink…coffee! It was such a great feeling to finally be at Table Mountain since we have been talking about it for such a long time! After we got back from the mountain we went to dinner with Charlene and Jessie, two of the girls who went to Vicky’s with us, at a seafood restaurant called Ocean Basket. We had delicious sushi and a South African beer, Castle Lite. It was quite good and an adequate substitute for the restaurant’s lack of sake! Kate and I were pretty tired from the day’s events but decided quickly after hearing some live music that sleep was not in the near future…at least not while in South Africa. We wanted to be awake for every moment! So I told Kate that we should have a glass of wine and listen for a while…we couldn’t stay out too late I told her since we had Shark Cage Diving in the morning…however, as we walked into Alba, a swanky little lounge, we quickly noted that this was not going to happen! The place was filled with local South Africans, many of which were easy on the eyes…and ended up having a second glass. We chatted with a few of the musicians and they loved our accents! We were thinking the other way around! Many of them were attending the University of Cape Town and gave me tips on transferring…or at least Graduate school!

Bright and early, Kate and I woke up for our exciting and adrenaline filled day of shark diving! We were picked up at the ship and rode in a big van 2 hours to Dyer Island…one of the most notorious places for the Great White. We got dropped off at the loading/docking area and boarded the boat. The ride out was a little rough; it almost felt as if we were on a roller coaster! The boat stopped about a mile from shore but was near Dyer Island. After a short introduction to cage diving…which was brief considering I was about to jump into a little metal cage with an 8 foot great white! The water was a little chilly so luckily we had wetsuits. The bait, called chum, was thrown out and we waited about 20 minutes to see our first fin…the tour guides quickly told us to get into the cage. It was funny because that was definitely not the first reaction when I saw that a great white was coming! But it didn’t stop me…I jumped in and four other people jumped next me. Then it got quiet. I remember floating in the cage thinking that this was such a crazy yet amazing thing! I was in the water not even 2 minutes and the guides yelled for us to take a breath and look straight ahead. We didn’t have scuba gear, just goggles and a wetsuit. We were also told to not hold on to the bars of the cage but there was one small bar inside that would protect our fingers! So we took a breath and dropped down 5 or 6 feet and not even 5 seconds later thousands of teeth were at eye level! It was crazy! I have jumped out of a plane and off a bridge but this was the most realistic threat that I have felt. I don’t want to give the impression that the sharks brought fear but I definitely felt like the shark’s lunch! We ended up seeing three different sharks during the trip and seeing the power and strength of these animals was awesome! I would definitely recommend it was for everyone, or at least for those who aren’t faint of heart!

Now for a day that used less adrenaline…Tuesday was spent in the beautiful wine lands of Stellenbosch. South Africa is filled with vineyards and I was able to visit four of the best in the area. I was joined by Kate, Shanna, Jenny, Julie, Tiffany, and Claire. We took a tour that was organized by Stumble Inn, the hostel that Kate, Shanna, and I stayed at for the night. Our tour guide was fantastic. We actually had two, Lucas and Hantus. However the seven of us were shuttled from vineyard to vineyard by Hantus. It was quite the deal…we were able to “taste” the wine and we had someone driving us around the entire time! He was definitely a great designate driver! We were instructed how to properly smell and taste red and white wines and started the day with champagne at noon! Talk about starting early! Our first vineyard, Simonsig, was quite lovely. We tasted four different wines, all of which were nice. Then we went to Fairview Winery where they are famous for their goat tower. They actually have goats that produce their famous cheese (delicious) and they built a tower for them to climb! Very fun. This was the vineyard that made the most exquisite wine. Now I do not have a refined enough of a palate to know much but the 2006 Spice Route Pinotage was heavenly! It is a red that is soft with a hint of banana and vanilla…absolutely divine! After our 6 “tastings” of wine and cheese we were in need of lunch. I can’t describe how fun this was…all of us girls laughing and enjoying ourselves with amazing guides accommodating our every need. And I learned so much about wine and it makes me appreciate it even more! Lunch was served promptly when we arrived at this cute little café and then it was off to the third vineyard. Now this was the most elegant vineyard in terms of its location. Nestled between two magnificent mountains with towering trees outlining the Dutch styled homes and buildings, the Dieu Donne, was a quite a sight! The wind was soft and warm and we enjoyed our wine sitting on the lush grass overlooking the acres upon acres of vines and grapes. Our fourth and final vineyard was called Boschendal, the second oldest estate in South Africa. This was another charming and romantic place. The large house was surrounded by the vines with the mountain in its backyard. A large and leafy tree engulfed the wine cellars. Our wine was elegantly chosen for us and we were able to taste a rose, two whites, two reds, and a sparkling. We sat in the cool shade under the tree and reflected on our time and how lucky we all were to be able to see and experience this place as well as the country that is South Africa. It was getting time to go but our guide gave us a challenge. We were told to guess the age of the large tree and whoever guessed correctly would get a bottle of wine. We all wrote down numbers, mine was 278…the exact age! How funny…so I decided that I would have to commemorate with a picture with the tree! Our wine tasting trip was drawing to a close (and I think we were all glad to not have to drink anymore) so we headed back to the hostel. It was very nice, different than what I was expecting! Kate, Shanna, and I went to dinner at Moyo, a popular African restaurant this is nestled in trees with even tables built at the tops of trees! It was an all you can eat experience with ostrich, water buffalo, and any kind of meat imaginable. There was so much food…but let me tell you about the desserts…scrumptious! I definitely felt like a Briggs that evening! (Sorry only family will understand that!) It was a great atmosphere too with drums and dancers entertaining the entire restaurant. We left at 10 and venture to a little place in Stellenbosch called NuBar, the trendy hangout for the university students in the area. It was so much fun! Then it was back to Stumble Inn for a great night’s sleep!

Wednesday was a great day...I participated in a service project called Africa Jam. Ellen, who is originally from Minnesota, started this Christian organization about 7 years ago when she came to South Africa. She met some people in the townships and was so moved by the people that she knew she wanted to be involved in their life and do something positive for them. Now Africa Jam has many members in various townships in the Cape Town area and all the young adults and children participate in after school activities such as drama, worship, and recreation. A group of 20 or so SAS students joined Ellen and two guides to Khayelitsha Township for such a unique day. We started out with lunch which consisted of Gatsby’s, a huge sub-style sandwich filled with meat, lettuce, tomato, and French fries. They were tasty but too large to eat it all. Afterward we were taken to the same spot that overlooks all of Khayelitsha. The two guides, Louiso and Winston both from townships, were filling our ears with so much information. The things that they see everyday and have to experience are things that I would never see in a lifetime if I were to remain at home. There is something positive about learning about all the negative things that go on in the world. I don’t know if it is losing the ignorance or actually seeing these things with my own eyes. I guess I will have to continue learning and embracing the opportunities to find an answer. After our 360 degree view of the jumble of colorful shacks we went into a part of the township. We were greeted by several children and teens…all with ear to ear smiles. Some were even jumping up and down in excitement! When I got out of the van kids instantly came up to me and hugged me and asked my name. They were so excited to tell me about their lives and where they live. There smiles and laughing were infectious…we all couldn’t help but join them! The first thing we did with the kids was a tour. Two students paired up with two kids from Khayelitsha and we were taken to their homes, met their families, and saw the area that was considered their own community. Sadly, these beautiful people are living among some of the worst living conditions that I have ever seen. Garbage lined the streets and water was scarce. Some homes did have running water and electricity but the majority went without. Malnourished dogs ran wild and the sanitation was, well let me just say that an outhouse looked first class. However, as I was led by two young girls none of this seems to bother them. They were too excited to share their lives with me, a perfect stranger. I couldn’t help but feel lucky to be at that place at that time. As we continued to walk, I noticed a large blue and white tent in a center of a few homes. I asked one of the girls what was going on. Thinking it was for a festival or party, I was shocked to hear that it was for a memorial for one of their friends who was killed two days earlier. She continued to tell me that he was killed by a gang in another township. She left no details out informing me that he tried to run away but was shot in both knees then stoned to death. As horrible as it is for me to write this for all of you to read, it has taught me something about reflecting on it. How could such things happen to innocent people? I am not trying to be naïve because I know that worse things occur every moment around the world but for some reason I felt like it had happened to a close friend of mine. It was an indescribable feeling. Having just been introduced to these two girls and having them open their lives for someone they just met made me feel like we had a unique connection and that their pain became mine. Then the most beautiful thing happened. One of the girls looked up at me. “Please don’t be sad for us,” she said softly. “This kind of thing happens a lot. But that is why we all have to have good relationships with each other. We don’t take for granted any moment because we never know if we will be here tomorrow.” I wish I could write the emotions that stirred within me. I was so upset and then came anger…but then she hugged me and there was a beautiful sense of comfort. I tightly hugged her back, thanking her for sharing her stories and love. Following that amazing revelation, the entire group gathered together at a metal shed. Here we watched as the members of Africa Jam sang, danced, and performed drama for us. Each one was so talented and their material was very moving. Little time was left for pictures so we all tried to capture memories and thanked one another for the difference that was made in each of our lives. From Khayelitsha we were taken to Camps Bay for our traditional African dinner. Now this area is by far the most exquisite place I have seen. With Table Mountain on one side and the Atlantic and white beaches on the other, it felt like Heaven. The home where we ate sat right on beach with views of all that I just described. Our dinner was fantastic and band member of Africa Jam played all night long. I was able to mingle with those who started this organization and learn more about what they do and how I could help. Just being a part of something as positive as this is what I hope to be able to do one day. The evening concluded with hugs and tears…what an experience!

The last day in Cape Town was bittersweet. I had so many emotions attached to this place now. Happy that I was able to do and see all that I did, I couldn’t help but be sad too. Kate and I wanted to start the last day like we started the first so we had tea on the Waterfront and chatted about the last week. Time certainly flew but we embraced every moment that came our way. The day was a simple one. We did a little more shopping, went to the internet café, and chatted with friends. I think everyone felt the same way about leaving. So we had one last meal, fish and chips, and boarded the MV Explorer. As we sailed away, I was warmed by the thoughts and experiences that I was able to have in the amazing country that is South Africa. It encompasses everything: rich and poor, black and white, old and new, young and old. I will cherish each day that I had in this place and I want to share with anyone and everyone the goodness that I experienced. And I know this…I will be back.